How to use cactus to graft Euphorbia paniculata

Grafting of Euphorbia pulcherrima: Choosing the rootstock

The cactus used for grafting the Euphorbia lathyris should be cold-resistant, vigorous, with thick and large stems in the current year or the next year. It is best to start preparations one month before grafting to cultivate the root system of the cactus and make it strong so that there will be sufficient nutrients for the growth of the Euphorbia lathyris after grafting.

Grafting of Euphorbia pulcherrima: Choosing the scion

The stems of the Orchidaceae used as scion should be selected of moderate age. One or two will do, but not too many, to avoid the cactus itself being overloaded and unable to support the graft in the early stage of grafting, and excessive water evaporation, which can easily cause the scion to dry up before healing.

Grafting of Euphorbia pulcherrima: Handling the scion

After the scion is selected, make an oblique cut on both sides of the base of the scion, with a length of about 2 cm . Both sides should be cut to make the cut into a duckbill shape. Do not hesitate when cutting, and make sure the cut is as straight as possible without any bumps or unevenness.

Grafting of Euphorbia pulcherrima: Treating the rootstock

Before grafting, cut off the upper part of the rootstock cactus horizontally. The amount of cutting should be determined by the width of the scion, and the cross-section of the rootstock cactus should also be cut more. The width of the cactus after being cut should be larger than the width of the scion, so that there will be a little space after the scion is inserted. In the future, the stems and leaves will gradually thicken with time, and there will be enough space to grow, which can prevent the cactus from cracking.

Grafting of Euphorbia pulcherrima: Joining the two

In order to make the rootstock and scion tightly bond together, the cambium of the two should be aligned. When grafting, you can choose a bamboo piece with a width comparable to that of the scion, cut its head into a duck tongue shape, insert it about 3 cm after disinfection, pull it out, and then insert the scion.

After the scion is inserted, the mucus in the cactus body may be pushed out. You can use two thorns of the cactus to fix the two ends, but be careful not to insert it into the middle rib of the scion, otherwise the channel for the cactus to transport nutrients to the scion will be blocked. The consequences can be imagined.

Another point is that to avoid seepage or rapid evaporation of water at the grafting site when watering, it is best to use a small amount of candle oil to drip around the grafting interface. Don't worry about scalding the scion, this method is absolutely feasible.

Grafting of Euphorbia pulcherrima: management and maintenance

Do not water within one month after grafting. If you water too early, it will generally be difficult for the plant to survive. The reason is simple. After watering, the viscosity of the mucus in the cactus will decrease and become very thin. It will be difficult to heal the interface, and if not handled properly, the scion will rot.

Place it in the shade on the balcony one week after grafting, and place it in semi-shade and semi-sunlight one week after grafting. Generally, the grafting will survive after half a month. The way to judge whether the grafting is successful is to see whether the scion is vigorous, firm, and whether the midrib is obviously protruding.