Cultivation method of red maple stumps (shaping method and planting technology of newly purchased old red maple stumps)

1. Preparation before planting

1. Choose the right flower pot

In order to ensure the permeability of the soil in the pot and prevent water accumulation in the pot, the red maple descent pile planting pot should be selected from earthenware pots or purple clay pots with good air permeability and leakage; its size and depth should be determined according to the plant size, growth and root system of the descent pile.

Generally speaking, since red maple is a deep-rooted tree, it is advisable to choose a slightly larger and deeper flowerpot for planting. This is not only convenient for the root system to stretch, but also conducive to nutrient storage and water storage, ensuring that the mountain-going pile has a stable survival foundation and logistical supply.

2. Prepare the Soil

Red maple is a wild plant that is slightly tolerant to barrenness, but prefers deep, fertile, loose, and humus-rich soil. Therefore, when preparing the soil, try to select it accordingly.

After the soil is selected or prepared, you should choose sunny weather to repeatedly dry it in the sun to disinfect it to prevent future troubles.

3. Pruning before planting

Before planting, the roots, stems, branches and leaves of the red maple trees should be pruned as necessary.

When pruning the root system, first cut off the rotten roots and broken roots, and then cut off the fibrous roots that are too long and affect the establishment. When pruning branches, you should retain the main stems and branches that maintain the tree's vigor, and then retain an appropriate amount of new branches.

At the same time, cut off branches that are too long and those that affect the shape of the tree to give it a general shape.

4. Wound management

Since the red maple stumps were pruned twice before and after harvesting, both the root system and the stems and branches experienced unprecedented "damage", so there were more affected areas.

Before planting, the root system should be disinfected and soaked; at the same time, a healing agent should be applied to the affected surface of the branches that is larger than 1 cm.

5. Soak in rooting water

When the root system and the affected surfaces of the stems and branches have been treated and after a 4-5 hour interval, soak the roots of the red maple stumps in diluted rooting water and take them out before transplanting.

2. Planting

When planting red maple trees, it is advisable to create a suitable soil environment for them, because this is the basis for their survival and development, and is also a necessary condition for determining whether they grow well.

1. Lay the filter

Generally, the bottom of the flower pot is designed with holes to prevent water accumulation. Therefore, in order to prevent the soil from being lost with the water when watering, a layer of filter can be laid at the bottom of the flower pot first.

2. Pad with small stones

In addition to ensuring the necessary leakage and waterproofing, the environment in the pot must also maintain the air permeability of the soil to make the soil and roots more active in the pot. Therefore, a layer of small sand about 1 cm thick can be laid on the filter.

3. Add potting soil

After the small sand is laid, it is time to put the potting soil in. Generally speaking, the depth of the potting soil should be 2 to 3 cm slightly lower than the edge of the pot after the downhill pile is planted. This can prevent the potting soil from overflowing with water when watering or making a mess of mud when loosening the soil.

4. Colonization

When planting red maple, first determine the width and depth of the hole according to the size of the root system, then straighten the plant to allow the root system to stretch, then cover the soil, press it down, and water it sufficiently.

5. Placement

The newly planted red maple should be placed in a warm and ventilated environment without strong light. After it survives, it can be moved to a sunny and ventilated balcony or courtyard. If there is a cold spring or heavy rain, it is advisable to properly shelter it from the wind and cold or move it indoors.

3. Modeling and maintenance

As the temperature gradually rises in spring, the red maple stumps will continue to sprout and branch out, but the red maple trees are not suitable for large-scale pruning at this time. It is best to wait until they recover to the winter and spring of the following year.

1. Modeling

Red maple stumps can be shaped in winter and spring. Early spring is the most suitable time for shaping, because the sap is about to flow and the branches are not as stiff as in winter, but gradually become soft.

At this point, you can use wire and other auxiliary tools to create the ideal shape.

2. Topping

In order to make the red maple stumps lush and red, people often pinch the necessary young branches to make them sprout more new branches and leaves. Therefore, pinching every spring is necessary.

3. Pruning

Spring and summer are the seasons when red maple trees grow most vigorously, so minor pruning becomes common.

All diseased leaves and branches must be pruned; the next is the overlapping branches that affect the light and ventilation; the next is the branches that affect the tree's vigor and shape. This is beneficial to light and ventilation, and can also make the tree grow well.

4. Leaf picking

During the maintenance process, people often find that maple leaves do not turn red when they should, or they are not red enough. This is often due to improper maintenance in the early stage, resulting in excessive chlorophyll content.

Therefore, we can remove the old leaves to make them sprout new leaves and grow red leaves dominated by lutein and carotene. It is worth noting that the time to pick leaves should not be too early or too late. It is recommended to pick leaves when the temperature is 15-25 degrees Celsius.

Also, when picking leaves, you should not pick them directly to avoid damaging the leaf buds. Instead, you should use scissors to cut off the leaves slightly above the connection between the petiole and the branch.