Preparation before graftingChoose sterile and strong bulb seedlings and leaf cactus plants with good growth conditions as rootstocks. If you want to create artistic shapes, you can choose plants with more branches; commonly used rootstocks include cactus, prickly pear, leaf cactus, and octopus. Tools must be sterilized; operators need to operate aseptically; and the environment must be hygienic. Grafting methodThe best method is plugging in, which prevents it from drying out and falling off easily. The plug-in method is the "up" type connection method. You need to choose a leaf cactus plant with good growth conditions. First, remove the tip, and then peel off the skin. The length of the peeling should be one-third of the height of the bulb seedling. Trim off the bottom of the bulb to expose the core. Drill a hole in the core (the diameter is selected according to the thickness of the branch) with a depth of one-third of the height of the ball. The advantages of the "up" type connection method are: large contact area, stability, not easy to fall off, and high survival rate. The best time for grafting is from April to May, and the temperature should be controlled at 20-25℃. Post-reception managementAfter the balls and columns are grafted, move them to a place where the light is not strong. Keep the temperature between 20 and 25 degrees Celsius to allow the wound to heal, which is usually completed after 15 to 20 days. At this time, gradually move it to a place with good light for maintenance. The culture soil should be loose and breathable, and the water should be neutral. |
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