The green grass turns black, your orchid is "poisoned", it will die immediately if you don't take care of it!

1. Early withdrawal of grass

Generally, during the growth process of orchids, in order to promote the germination and growth of new leaves, the tips and edges of old leaves will gradually turn yellow and wither from top to bottom, thereby saving nutrients. This is the normal weeding phenomenon.

But if the new leaves are also turning yellow, scorched, or even the rhizomes are deformed and changed color, it means that the orchid leaves have withdrawn prematurely.

What should I do if I want to withdraw the grass early?

Removing weeds prematurely will cause the orchid leaves to become sparse and black, and the plant to develop slowly or even stop developing. At this time, you should first check the condition of the root system.

1. The root system is slightly damaged

If the root system is not seriously damaged and the outer leaves are withered, just cut them off in time, and then control the water and fertilizer. Do not water unless the soil is dry, and water thoroughly when the soil is dry. Apply a thin liquid fertilizer every 15 to 20 days in summer.

2. Severe root damage

If the orchid's root system is severely damaged, the entire plant may become weedy, and in this case the pot and soil must be changed. After removing the plant from the pot, first cut off the rotten roots, then soak the entire root in a solution of carbendazim for disinfection, then put it back into the pot and add planting material, making sure to expose the reed head.

2. Infection with stem rot

If you find that the orchid leaves are gradually turning black from the bottom to the top, and black spots are growing on the leaf surface, and if you dig up the roots and even see that everything from the root neck to the rhizome is black, then you should be alert, as it is very likely infected with stem rot!

How to prevent and control stem rot?

The peak period of stem rot is from June to September. During this period, the temperature is high, watering is frequent, and there are many insect pests, making orchids easily infected by bacteria.

Prevention first, prevention is better than cure

1. During the high temperature period in summer, you can spray antibacterial agents such as carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl or methyl thiophanate diluted 500 to 1000 times around the plants and leaves every 7 to 10 days for sterilization.

2. Treat wounds promptly, especially after division, and apply wound healing agents immediately to prevent infection;

3. You can bury some furadan insecticide in the planting material to prevent pests from infecting the reed heads.

How to treat it?

1. Cut off and burn the infected orchid plants and leaves immediately upon discovery;

2. Pull out the entire orchid pot, wash it, cut off the diseased plants and rotten rhizomes, and then place the remaining orchid in a solution of fenpropimorph that is slightly more concentrated than 500 times, and soak it for a whole day.

3. After drying, change the soil and put it in the pot again. Do not water it, place it in a cool and ventilated place for three days, and soak the orchid pot with 500 to 1000 times the concentration of fungicide every month, and it will gradually recover.

Note: Huahua reminds everyone that in hot weather, you must frequently turn the soil and ventilate the orchids to ensure that the roots breathe normally. If you find it troublesome, you can use a fan to blow after watering.

Well, that’s all about orchid fever.

Flower lovers, have you learned it?