If you grow Clivia like this in autumn, its leaves will be shiny and the flower buds will pop up!

If you don't change the pot of Clivia, it won't grow in a year.

The harm of not changing the pot: When we are caring for Clivia, we must continuously increase the capacity of the flowerpot according to the growth of the plant. If we do not change to a larger pot, its fleshy roots will be too crowded, which will affect the absorption of nutrients!

In addition, if the soil of Clivia is not changed for a long time, the nutrients in the soil will gradually be consumed, and the longer the time, the worse the air permeability of the soil. Autumn is a good time to change pots and soil, so flower lovers must not miss it!

1. Preparation before soil replacement

We must do preparation work before changing the soil, control water in advance according to the size of the flowerpot, and stop watering to reduce damage to the root system when changing the soil.

To prepare the replacement soil, we can use leaf mold, pine needle soil, and add a small amount of perlite and charcoal.

2. Soil replacement in progress

Take the Clivia out of the pot, remove the dirt, cut off the rotten and empty roots, apply wood ash to the wounds, and let it air dry before putting it in the pot.

Choose a good flowerpot, first spread a layer of base soil on the bottom of the pot, then turn the plant upside down, hold the roots of the Clivia in your hand, and fill the root pocket (the space between the roots) with soil first.

Then hold the roots and the soil wrapped around them and place them in the middle of the pot, and then fill the space around the roots with soil. After filling the soil, press the soil along the edge of the pot, and do not press the soil in the middle where the roots are.

When changing the soil, we can also mix fried sesame seeds, decomposed cake fertilizer, bone meal and the like into the soil as base fertilizer. Be careful not to use too much and avoid direct contact with the roots.

3. Maintenance after soil replacement

After the plant is potted, water it thoroughly immediately and place it in a well-ventilated place away from direct sunlight to allow it to grow slowly. After a week, you can maintain it normally!

If you divide Clivia cleverly, you can have two more pots!

Generally, plants over 4 years old will be able to produce sucker buds at the leaves. When it grows 5 to 6 leaves, we can divide the plant, and this can be done at the same time as repotting in autumn!

When dividing the plant, separate the new plant with its fleshy roots from the mother plant, cut it off with a knife, apply wood ash on the cut, and then plant it in the pot after the wound is dry.

If the newly born seedlings do not grow fleshy roots, we don’t have to worry. We can cut them directly, use them for cuttings, and then plant them in pots after they take root.

Apply more fertilizer to Clivia to keep its leaves green!

As for base fertilizer, we can apply it according to the fertilizer written above when changing the soil. If flower lovers do not want to change pots this season, we can bury the decomposed cake fertilizer and bone meal 2cm into the soil. Still, be careful not to let it come into direct contact with the roots.

For top dressing, liquid fertilizer is usually applied. Fermented bean cake water or fish water can be applied once every half a month.

Starting from October, you can increase the application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers to promote the emergence of flower arrows. Generally, it is applied 2 to 3 times until the flower arrows actually emerge.

Huahua reminds: When applying fertilizer, we must control the amount of fertilizer. It is better to apply less rather than more, and light rather than concentrated!

When Clivia is frozen, the flower arrows grow faster!

If you want Clivia to bloom successfully, the first thing you need to do is to fertilize as mentioned above. In autumn, you must apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizers to promote flowering.

The second point is appropriate low temperature (5~10℃). Be careful not to bring the plants indoors too early in winter. It is better to keep the temperature low to avoid frostbite.

After that, move it indoors to increase the temperature difference between day and night. After the arrow emerges, the temperature should be kept at around 20℃. If the temperature is lower than 15℃ when the flower stem is growing, the arrow will be pinched.

Third, as summer passes, the light intensity is also weakening. We need to increase the sunlight exposure appropriately so that the plants can successfully differentiate flower buds!