Super cutting method for Pothos gardenia, 100% survival!

If the green radish doesn’t survive after being propagated through cuttings like this, come to me!

Today Huahua is going to teach you a super super simple method of growing green radish by cuttings! All it takes is a piece of stem! The green ivy that Huahua grows is grown by cuttings herself. She picked up the cuttings while visiting the flower market and didn’t spend a penny. Come and have a look!

1. Cut off all leaves and cut branches into small pieces

When Huahua picked up the branches of the green ivy, the leaves were a little wilted, but the stems were still bright green. Huahua simply cut off all the leaves and then cut the stems into segments, each segment was 3-4 cm long and had at least 1 node.

2. Prepare the soil for cuttings

Green ivy likes loose and clean soil. Huahua recommends that you first expose river sand and leaf mold to the sun for disinfection, and then mix them together. You can also add some vermiculite to make the soil loose and breathable, which is more conducive to the rooting of green ivy.

3. Let the branches lie on the soil

After cutting the branches, you can first put them in a cool and ventilated place to dry the wounds, and then spread them horizontally on the surface of the potting soil. If there are aerial roots on the nodes, let the aerial roots touch the soil.

4. Water thoroughly once

After the branches are laid out, water them once. Make sure the water is thoroughly poured out. Stop watering when you see water flowing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

5. Cover with transparent film to keep warm and moisturize

The temperature may still be a little low in some places in the north now, so cover the surface of the pot with a layer of transparent plastic film, tie it along the edge of the pot with a rope, and poke two small holes in the film for ventilation. Move indoors to a well-lit area.

6. Rooting in about 15 days

While waiting for roots and sprouts to grow, pay attention to whether the soil is dry. Water it in time to keep the soil moist, but don't water it too much, otherwise you will regret it if the pot is rotten. Generally, in about 15-30 days, bright green and shiny leaves will appear, and the roots will already be thick and white.

7. Transplant into pots

When the new leaves grow and the number of leaves reaches 3-5, the root system will also be relatively strong and you can dig them out and put them in pots. In order to reduce root damage, you can transplant them with soil.

If you propagate gardenias by cuttings this way, they will 100% survive!

Spring is here, and those who grow gardenias must be happy. Not only can they wait to enjoy the flowers, but they can also take cuttings and turn one pot into ten pots. Is it difficult for gardenia cuttings to take root? Try the amphibious cutting method right away, it will definitely take root! It's hard to die together!

1. Cut off the gardenia branches

Try not to choose branches that are too tender. 1-2 year old woody branches are easier to survive. Cut the branches into segments at a 45-degree angle, each segment is 10 cm. Place them in a ventilated place for 1-2 hours to allow the wound to dry and heal.

2. Block the drainage holes of the flower pot

Light the candle, hold it upside down in your hand, and let the melted wax drip into the drain hole. Let it drip for a while to seal the drain hole. When you think it is completely sealed, you can pour water into it to check for leaks. Make sure there are no leaks! Pour out the water again.

3. Pour 3/5 of the soil into the pot

Go to the green belt in the community and dig some garden soil, put it in the sun to sterilize it, and then put it into the flowerpot. The garden soil should occupy 3/5 of the flowerpot.

4. Spread another layer of river sand

First rinse the river sand with water, then spread it flat in the sun to disinfect it, and then pour it into the flowerpot. The river sand only needs to occupy 1/5 of the flowerpot, and there is no need to mix it with garden soil.

5. Pour clean water into the basin

Pour clean water into the flowerpot, preferably along the edge of the pot, slowly pouring it to allow the water to soak into the soil. Stop pouring when the water level is about 1 cm higher than the river sand level.

6. Insert the branches into the soil

After the wounds on the branches have dried, you can insert them into the pot. Don't insert them too deep, so that the branches can stand steadily. It is enough to plant 3-4 branches in one flowerpot. Too dense a density will be detrimental to later growth. If the drainage holes in the flower pot are not blocked tightly, you can use a plastic bottle.

7. Change water every week

Move the flower pot under diffuse light, add clean water in time, and keep the water level 1 cm above the soil. Every 7 days, pour out the water and replace it with new water.

8. Rooting takes about 15-20 days

After 15-20 days, the gardenia will take root. If you are using a flowerpot, poke a drainage hole from the bottom of the pot to let the water flow out, and place it in a well-ventilated place. Wait until the soil is dry before watering. No need to worry about not being able to keep it alive anymore!

Roses take root quickly if you propagate them by cuttings like this!

Some flower lovers like to do cuttings, but they fail over and over again. 9 out of 10 times the flowers suffer from black rot, which makes them doubt their lives helplessly. How can we increase the survival rate of rose cuttings? Come and learn the great vermiculite tray method, which not only prevents black rot, but also allows the roots to grow faster, 100% breaking the curse of "cuttings are doomed to die"!

1. Branches are easier to survive after flowering

If you want to increase the survival rate, try to choose branches after flowering, because the branches at this time are relatively rich in nutrients.

2. Cut branches

Wipe and disinfect the scissors with alcohol, cut off the healthy one-year-old rose branches, cut off the node with the flowers, and make sure the cut is flat. Keep the lower two sections and make a 45° cut when inserting them into the soil.

3. Soak in carbendazim

Soak the cut branches in carbendazim to sterilize and disinfect them. Take them out after 20 minutes and put them in a ventilated place to dry. Flower lovers who always suffer from black rot after cuttings should not forget this step.

4. Dip in rooting powder

Dip the bottom cut of the rose branch in rooting powder or soak it in 10 times diluted white sugar water to increase the rooting speed.

5. Choose soil for cuttings

First put the vermiculite or river sand in the sun to sterilize it, then pour it into a transparent plastic bottle and poke a few holes in the bottom of the bottle for drainage and ventilation.

6. Plastic bottles are placed on the pallet

Find a tray or a basin, fill it with water (about 3-5 cm high), put the plastic bottle containing soil on it, and let the soil absorb the water and become moist.

7. Insert the branches into the soil

First poke a few holes in the soil, then bury the rose branches. Place it under diffuse light, away from direct sunlight, to prevent it from wilting. You don’t need to water the soil at ordinary times. Just add water when you see the tray is empty.

8. Rooting after 15-20 days

After about 15-20 days, you will be able to see white roots in the transparent plastic bottle, and tender green leaves will have grown. Let the roots continue to grow for a few more days, then cut open the plastic bottle, take out the branches with the soil, and transplant them into a new pot!

Cuttings are very interesting.

Don’t miss it this spring!

Don't be discouraged even if there is black rot or rotten stems.

Try a few more times and you will succeed!

If you think Huahua's super cutting method is useful,

Just share it with others!