The flowers turn yellow as they get old and grow slowly. Just do a small operation on the roots and they will grow faster!

Chlorophytum - Cut off some of the large and thick roots

With the same normal watering and fertilizing, why can other people’s spider plants grow into a waterfall in just one year? Your plant only grows a few leaves a year, and the tips always turn yellow and dry. The problem lies in the roots.

1. In spring and autumn, when we change the flowers, we will find that there are many white and plump ones on the spider plant, like "little radishes". These "little radishes" are the water storage tissues of the spider plant, which can prevent it from dying even if it is not watered for a long time.

However, having too many "little radishes" is not good. Not only will they make the pot stuffy and prone to root rot, but they will also rob the stems and leaves of water and nutrients, resulting in only roots growing but no leaves. So if you want the leaves of the spider plant to grow vigorously, you have to operate on these "little radishes".

2. Before the operation, do not water the spider plant within 1 week. Hold the root connection of the spider plant with one hand, and turn the flower pot upside down with the other hand to remove the entire root soil from the pot.

3. Loosen the soil to reveal the white "little radishes". Use scissors to cut off about 1/3 of the "little radishes". Do not cut off all of them. Of course, rotten roots and old roots should also be cut off.

4. Place the trimmed spider plant in a cool and ventilated place and let the wound dry for 10-15 minutes. If there is carbendazim, soak it in carbendazim for 5 minutes.

5. Replant the dried spider plant into new potting soil, water it thoroughly, and place it in a cool and ventilated place. After 2 weeks, gradually expose it to sunlight.

6. After easing into the pot, the growth rate of the spider plant will be much faster than before, and its leaves will never turn yellow or dry out!

Clivia - Cut off the empty roots

Many flower lovers often complain to Huahua that their Clivia grows very slowly and does not bloom. What is going on? The problem mainly lies in the root! Especially for those Clivias that have been raised for more than 3 years, the root system tends to age and the absorption capacity is greatly reduced. They can't provide much nutrients for the leaves. They also hinder the breathing of healthy roots in the soil and increase the chance of root rot.

1. Before pruning the roots of Clivia, you must cut off water for at least one week, and then remove the roots from the pot and soil.

2. Pinch the bottom roots of the Clivia one by one. Pull out the empty roots that are hollow inside and shrink when pinched, and keep the good roots that are thick inside and have tender white tips. Of course, rotten roots and particularly hard old roots should also be pulled out.

3. After cutting off the empty roots, old roots and rotten roots, soak the entire root system and rhizome connection of the Clivia in carbendazim or potassium permanganate solution for 20-30 minutes. Then take it out and dry it for 20-30 minutes before potting it.

4. Prepare new soil according to the ratio of leaf mold: pine needles: river sand: charcoal residue = 5:2:2:2, then replant the Clivia in the potting soil with the new soil, pour the remaining carbendazim solution into the potting soil, and place it in a place with scattered light and ventilation for maintenance.

5. After about 2-3 months, the Clivia will grow new roots and its absorption capacity will be greatly enhanced. If you water it with liquid fertilizer once a week, the Clivia will grow very fast, and its leaves will be shiny and never turn yellow, and will be thicker than before!

Succulents - cut off the excessively long roots

It's autumn and the weather is getting cooler. It's a good time to repot and prune the roots of succulents. However, many flower lovers dare not repot and prune the roots of succulents for fear of killing them. In fact, succulent plants that grow fast and beautifully need to have their roots pruned at least 1-2 times a year.

1. Control water for at least 2 weeks before pruning the roots. Then hold the rhizome with one hand and turn the flowerpot with the other hand to remove the succulent from the pot. Gently shake the soil at the roots with both hands to let the soil on the roots fall off.

2. Straighten the roots of the succulents slightly. Beginners can cut off 1/2 of the overly long roots, while experienced people can directly cut off 2/3 of the entire root length.

3. Too old roots are not conducive to the growth of succulents, so the aging roots need to be cut off every six months or a year, so that the succulents can produce more new white roots. These new roots have stronger vitality and absorption capacity, and will continuously provide nutrients to the succulents, allowing it to grow very fast!

Green radish - cut off the old black roots

The factors that determine how fast and well the green radish grows are watering and fertilizing, and the other is root pruning and repotting. Therefore, if you water and fertilize normally but the green ivy still does not grow well, it is time to prune the roots and change the pot.

1. Turn the green radish upside down and remove it from the pot.

2. Clean the soil off the roots and cut off the black, soft, and particularly long roots.

3. After pruning, soak it in carbendazim for 8-10 minutes, then take it out and dry it for 5 minutes.

4. Mix peat soil and perlite in a ratio of 2:1 to make nutrient soil, then use this soil to replant the green ivy into the flowerpot, and pour the previously used carbendazim solution into the soil.

5. After the roots are trimmed, the green ivy will grow thicker and stronger root systems after being planted in the pot. If it is provided with enough water and fertilizer, it will grow very fast.

Rose - corky old roots, nodules

For roses, especially potted roses, old roots and nodules must be pruned after 2-3 years of growth. Otherwise, the root system will become corky, water-impermeable, and unable to absorb nutrients, and the number of rose flowers will decrease year by year. Root nodules will cause the rose to be short and weak, and the leaves to turn yellow.

1. Tilt the rose 90 degrees, hold the rhizome connection of the rose with one hand, and gently tap the wall of the flowerpot with the other hand to let the soil leave the pot, and slowly take out the whole plant.

2. Soak the entire soil lump in clean water and gently remove the soil on the roots until the roots are clean.

3. If you find bean-like nodules on the roots, use sharp scissors to cut them off. Also cut off roots with insect eggs and diseases to avoid infection.

4. If you find some thick, long and hard roots among the roots, you should also cut them off, because these roots have become corky, which hinders the nutrient absorption of flowers. After cutting them off, the rose will sprout more new roots, be more vigorous, and its ability to absorb water and nutrients will be greatly enhanced.

5. Soak the trimmed rose roots completely in carbendazim or potassium permanganate solution for 2-3 hours, and then you can put them back in the pot. Note that the total length of root pruning should not exceed 1/3 of the entire root length, otherwise it will be difficult to repot.

6. The soil for roses should be prepared according to the ratio of garden soil: perlite: vermiculite: organic fertilizer = 4:3:2:2:0.5. A layer of expanded clay should be placed at the bottom of the flowerpot to prevent water accumulation.

7. After potting, cut off some branches and leaves appropriately to reduce nutrient consumption, then place it in a cool and ventilated place, spray water on the leaves every day to keep them moist, leave it in the pot for 1-2 weeks, and then gradually expose it to the sun.

Lucky bamboo - cut off all old roots

Almost every household has hydroponic lucky bamboo, and almost all of them will have yellow leaves and rotten roots. In fact, it is not only because of improper maintenance, but more importantly, it is a root problem. Especially for lucky bamboo that has been hydroponically cultivated for more than a year, the roots will turn black and old, have poor absorption capacity, and are easy to rot. It would be strange if the leaves did not turn yellow. How to solve it? You can refer to the following steps.

1. Take the lucky bamboo out of the hydroponic bottle and cut off all the bottom branches with roots. Make sure the cut is at a 45-degree angle and in the shape of a horseshoe.

2. Soak the cut bottom of the lucky bamboo in a solution of carbendazim for a few minutes. If you have a rooting agent, you can also soak it in it.

3. Pour out the original water in the hydroponic bottle, clean it inside and out, then pour in 1/3 of clean water and reinsert the lucky bamboo.

4. Change the water every 2 days. After about 1-2 weeks, the lucky bamboo will take root. If you want it to take root earlier and prevent root rot, you can grind aspirin into powder and pour it into the hydroponic bottle.

5. When the roots grow to about 3-4 cm, you can add 1-2 drops of nutrient solution every week. The absorption capacity of the new roots will be greatly increased, and the lucky bamboo will not turn yellow if it has sufficient nutrients and water.

Bougainvillea - cut off 1/3 of the root system

Bougainvillea has a strong root system and grows very fast. If it is not trimmed for a long time, the roots will cover the entire flowerpot, age and rot, causing leaves to fall, dry up, and not bloom.

1. Before pruning the roots, do not water the bougainvillea within 1 week. Before pruning the roots, remove the entire root system along with the original soil from the pot.

2. Cut off 1/3 of the roots at the bottom of the bougainvillea along with the soil, because these roots at the bottom are seriously aged and most likely to rot. In addition, cutting off the aging 1/3 of the roots at the bottom will prevent the bougainvillea from being too damaged and make it easier to repot.

3. Find a new larger flowerpot and add new nutrient soil to the bottom. Just replant the remaining bougainvillea, including the roots and soil, into the flowerpot.

4. Place the transplanted bougainvillea in a well-lit and ventilated place within 1 week. Note: do not perform this operation on flowers that are in the flowering or bud formation stage.