Use this for cuttings, 100% rooting! It’s so easy!

Use these things to make cuttings

1. Fish tank bottom sand

1. The bottom sand often laid in the fish tank is actually a good material for cuttings. It is inorganic and can effectively prevent root rot during cuttings.

2. After cleaning the bottom sand repeatedly, pour in potassium permanganate solution for disinfection. The solution should cover the bottom sand. The concentration does not need to be too high. It is sufficient when the color turns purple-red.

3. Prepare the cuttings for grafting. The cuttings should be healthy. It is best to remove a few leaves to reduce transpiration and nutrient consumption and shorten the rooting time.

4. Insert the branches into the bottom sand, but not all the way to the bottom. Leave a certain amount of space at the bottom of the branches to allow rooting and ventilation.

5. Place the cutting box in a cool and ventilated place, and basically don't need to worry about it. When the water dries up, the roots will grow.

6. This method is to use water first to ensure the activity of the branches. When the water gradually decreases, there will be a moist substrate to promote rooting. After the water dries up, the root system has basically adapted to the soil. After potting, the survival rate is high. It can be called the most perfect lazy cutting method.

2. Vermiculite

1. Prepare a disposable plastic cup and drill a few water-permeable holes at the bottom with scissors.

2. Select clean vermiculite, wash it with water, and soak it in carbendazim solution for half an hour to disinfect and sterilize it.

3. Select healthy rose branches (or other branches for cuttings), preferably after flowering. Then cut the branch from the third leaf under the flower. The knife used to cut the branch should be sharp and preferably sterilized.

4. Fill a disposable cup with vermiculite, process the branches simply, cut off the flower stems, and leave small branches with leaves for cuttings.

5. Insert the branches into the vermiculite and water until water flows out from the holes under the plastic cup.

6. Find a small tray, place the plastic cups for cuttings on it, add water to the tray, and make sure the water covers the bottom of the plastic cups.

7. Move the tray to a place with diffused light and good ventilation. Be sure to ensure ventilation. It will grow roots in about half a month to a month. Vermiculite is permeable to water and air, and the water in the tray can increase the humidity nearby and improve the rooting rate.

Best of all, this method eliminates the need for daily watering, as the vermiculite will absorb water into the tray when it dries!

3. Sponge

1. Sponge is a material with good water retention properties. Whether it is used for cuttings or sowing, it can improve the survival rate.

2. Prepare a sponge and let it absorb water. Then insert the cut cuttings into the sponge. Don't insert it too deep, about 1-2 cm is enough.

3. Place the sponge in a plastic container and sprinkle water on it when it feels dry. You can also place the sponge directly in a shallow tray of water, and the sponge will absorb water by itself when it dries.

4. Place the sponge in a bright and ventilated place. The cuttings will take root in about 1-2 weeks. When potting, be careful not to take the sponge off. Put it directly into the pot to avoid damaging the roots. Slowly, the sponge will decompose on its own.

5. In addition, floral mud can also replace sponge, the effect will be better.

4. Sphagnum moss

1. Sphagnum moss has good water retention and is especially suitable for the rooting of fleshy roots such as Clivia and orchids. Here we take the rooting of Clivia after division as an example.

2. Soak the rootless Clivia bulbs in a solution of carbendazim for half an hour, then place them in a cool and ventilated place to dry.

3. Wet the dry sphagnum moss, wrap the roots of the Clivia, and place them in the flowerpot.

4. Move the flower pot to a cool and ventilated place, and spray water when the sphagnum moss feels dry. In less than a month, the Clivia will take root.

5. Coal slag

1. After picking up large pieces of honeycomb coal, soak them in water for a day to remove the heat, then break them into pieces with force and rinse them with water twice.

2. The crushed coal slag should be sieved, and those that are too small should be discarded. Those that are about 1-2 cm in size can be used for rooting, and large pieces of coal slag can be used to pad the bottom of the pot.

3. Put the sifted coal slag into a flowerpot and wet it with water.

4. Insert the prepared branches into the coal slag. It is best to disinfect the branches and dry them before inserting.

5. Place the cutting pot in a cool and ventilated place. It will take about 10 days for the cuttings to take root. Remember to sprinkle water on the coal slag every 2-3 days.

6. Charcoal is a better medium for cuttings than coal slag because it is relatively clean and can prevent corrosion. If flower lovers have charcoal at home, they can use it instead of coal slag.

6. Sawdust

1. Sawdust should be clean, log wood chips. Sawdust such as antiseptic wood cannot be used for rooting because they are mixed with other additives.

2. Put a layer of sawdust (clean wood chips are also fine) at the bottom of the flowerpot, then put the flowers and plants to be rooted into the flowerpot, and slowly fill the flowerpot with sawdust.

3. Water thoroughly, then place the flower pot in a cool and ventilated place. Sprinkle water on the sawdust about once every 3-4 days. Do not water it at noon. It is best to do it in the morning and evening before the weather gets hot.

This is what you should do before cutting

1. Cut the cuttings at a 45 degree angle

The cuttings are cut at a 45-degree angle to increase the rooting area and improve the rooting rate.

2. Disinfection of cuttings

It is best to disinfect both the cuttings and the cutting medium so that the cuttings will not become diseased and can grow healthy roots. Disinfection can be done by soaking in carbendazim solution or potassium permanganate solution.

3. The rooting rate is higher after ring barking

Ring barking (cutting off a layer of skin on the surface of the branches) can hinder the upward and downward nutrient transport of the branches and concentrate the nutrients at the ring-barking position. If the branches are ring-barked for 3 days and then cut and grafted, the rooting rate can be increased.

4. The rooting rate of heel cuttings is higher

When propagating roses, camellias, osmanthus and other flowers and trees by cuttings, you can place some branches from the previous year at the bottom of the cuttings to make it easier to take root.

5. Cutting after yellowing treatment

Darkness can increase the activity of the root tissue of flowers and plants. Before cuttings, cover the branches with black plastic bags for about 20 days, and then cut them off to increase the rooting rate.

6. Soak in water before cutting

After cuttings are cut, soak them in water for a few days before grafting. This can increase root activity and improve the rooting rate.

7. Dip in rooting powder before cutting

Dissolve rooting powder in water at a ratio of 1:50, soak the cuttings in it for half an hour before transplanting, which can increase the rooting rate.

8. Soak in aspirin solution before cutting

Aspirin tablets contain salicylic acid, which is a good tool for promoting rooting of flowers and plants. Crush the aspirin solution and dissolve it in water at a ratio of 1:1000. Soak the branches in water for half a day before grafting them, which can improve the survival rate.

9. Soak the willow branches in extract and then plant them

The growth hormone contained in willow bark can greatly improve the success rate of flower and plant cuttings. Crush the willow branches, soak them in water for half a month, and then you can use them. When cutting, soak the cuttings in willow extract for half an hour, and then cut them again to increase the rooting rate.