Here's what you need to know about pruning

Q1. Why do flowers need to be pruned?

The flower proverb "70% depends on care, and 30% depends on pruning" is an important experience in flower growing. Through pruning, not only can the branches of flowers be evenly distributed, nutrients can be saved, the plant vigor can be adjusted, and excessive growth can be controlled, thereby making the flower plants neat in shape and graceful in posture, but more importantly, it can help them bloom more. The flowers of most flowers bloom on new branches. Only by constantly pruning old branches can new branches be promoted, more flowers bloom, and more fruits are produced. Pruning is generally divided into the following two types:

(1) Pruning during the dormant period: mainly thinning and pruning. It is best to do this in early spring when the sap begins to flow and the buds are about to sprout. If you prune too early, the wound will not heal easily and the new shoots will be easily damaged by frost. If you prune too late, the new shoots will have already sprouted, wasting nutrients.

(2) Pruning during the growing season: mainly to regulate vegetative growth, including pinching, removing buds, thinning flowers, thinning fruits, and cutting off overgrown branches. During the growth period, it can be done at any time.

Q2. When is the best time to prune potted flowers?

Different types of flowers and trees require different pruning times. When pruning flowers and trees that are mainly for viewing, you must first understand the flowering habits of different flowers and trees. For plants that bloom in spring, such as plum blossoms, peach blossoms, and forsythia, the flower buds are formed on the branches of the previous year. Therefore, they should not be pruned in winter, nor before they sprout in early spring, otherwise the flower branches will be cut off. They should be pruned within 1-2 weeks after flowering to promote the sprouting of new shoots and form flower branches for the next year. If you wait until autumn or winter to do your pruning, the branches that have formed flower buds in the summer will be damaged, affecting flowering in the second year.

All flowers and trees that bloom on branches of the current year, such as roses, hibiscus, poinsettia, hibiscus, kumquat, daisy, and bergamot, should be pruned during the winter dormancy to promote more new shoots, more flowering, and more fruiting. Climbing woody flowers should generally be pruned during the dormant period or in winter to maintain a neat, symmetrical and beautiful plant shape. Flowers and trees that are mainly straight are also mostly pruned during the dormant period.

Q3. How to pinch the tips?

Pinching is the process of pinching off (or cutting off) the top of the main stem or side branches of flowers with your fingers to promote the germination of axillary buds or inhibit the growth of branches, so that the plant grows strong and beautiful and increases the number of flowers.

For general herbaceous flowers, such as impatiens, snapdragon, pepper, vinca, etc., after the seedlings are established and survive, they can be topped when the plant height is about 10 cm to encourage more branches and flowering. For example, for begonia, fuchsia, chrysanthemum, etc., after the seedlings are established and survive, they should be pinched to promote more side branches, enrich the plant shape, and increase the number of flowers. However, pinching is not recommended for some flowers whose flowers will become smaller or fail to bloom after pinching, such as Impatiens, Cockscomb, and Jiangxi wax twig.

Some woody flowers are topped and pinched when they are repotted in spring or when the main branches are growing vigorously to accelerate the formation of branches. For example, pomegranates, roses, plum blossoms, poinsettias, bougainvilleas, and night-syringas can be topped multiple times according to the cultivation purpose and plant growth.

Q4. How to prune shrubs?

Shrubs in gardens can generally be divided into three categories: flowering shrubs, fruit-bearing shrubs, and branch-bearing shrubs. Different pruning methods should be adopted according to different ornamental purposes. Common shrubs that are mainly for viewing flowers include Forsythia, Forsythia suspensa, Rosea thorna, Bauhinia, and Lilac. Their flower buds are formed on the branches in the previous year, so pruning should be done after flowering in May and June.

Pruning in summer is mainly focused on thinning and shaping branches. Crossing branches, overgrown branches, densely grown branches, diseased and insect-infested branches, and dead branches are cut off to facilitate ventilation and light transmission and concentrate nutrients. The remaining branches after flowering can be shortened to promote their growth and facilitate more flowering next year.

For summer flowering shrubs, such as roses, hibiscus, wolfberries, crape myrtles, etc., they bloom on new shoots that sprout in the spring of that year, so pruning is done after the leaves fall in winter. Prune off dense branches, dead branches, and branches infested with diseases and insect pests. When thinning branches, the stump should not be left too long. Generally, the upper incision should be made from the branching point at a 45° angle, and the incision should be smooth. Weak branches should be pruned heavily, and strong branches should be pruned lightly. 4 to 6 buds can be retained on each branch, and the rest should be cut off.

For shrubs that can both bloom and bear fruit, such as holly and goldenrod, it is appropriate to prune away some of the dense branches and diseased and insect-infested branches after flowering to allow ventilation and light to pass through, which will facilitate fruiting. For some shrubs with ornamental branches, such as red yew and deutzia, since they are mainly for viewing their bright young branches, they can be heavily pruned in winter every year, leaving only 15 cm to 20 cm of the above-ground part and cutting off the rest to encourage them to sprout more new branches in the next year.