How to care for Lithops

Lithops cultivation technology

Seed propagation is the main means of propagation of Lithops. Of course, they can also be propagated by cutting roots and dividing, but the division of Lithops is much more difficult than that of Conopsis plants. Moreover, the ramets basically come from large clusters. Due to the characteristics of Lithops that they grow slowly and are difficult to separate, large groups of Lithops are relatively rare and precious (division is not recommended).

Sowing lithops is not a difficult task. The seeds collected and well preserved in the previous year are the most qualified seeds for sowing, because fresh seeds often have many problems during germination and sowing (Note: these are what we call seeds that have not gone through the after-ripening period). If the seeds are stored in a dry and dark environment with seed clips, they can still be full of germination vitality even after more than 10 years.

I choose organic-free medium as my sowing medium. Pure volcanic rock is usually used for seeding. If you don't have enough volcanic rocks, you can also choose gravel or other small stones with a diameter between 1-4mm for sowing.

But be careful not to let their pH value exceed 7 (Note: most plants in the Aizoaceae family prefer an acidic environment). I don't use any organic media like peat or garden soil for my sowings because they often harbor bugs or harmful fungi.

To ensure that the roots of the seedlings can directly penetrate the medium instead of creeping on the medium, it is necessary to avoid the fine particles and dust present in the sowing medium. This is another reason why I don't use garden soil and peat (Note: Chinese gardening prefers to use peat medium because it contains suitable organic matter and good air permeability, which helps plants achieve the best growth rate.

The rigorous Germans prefer to be absolutely sure that nothing goes wrong, and for this reason they ensure extremely high plant quality.

Preparation before sowing Lithops

Before sowing, we need to disinfect and sterilize the medium to prevent the outbreak of diseases and pests in the later stage. I usually use high temperature sterilization, which is to heat the planting material to 200 degrees Celsius for one hour. (Note: Due to family reasons, I only soaked the medium once in potassium permanganate. Friends who use microwave ovens to disinfect should be careful to ensure that the medium is moist to prevent heating of dry media, which can easily cause spontaneous combustion).

Before sowing, place the sterilized medium into the sowing container and then completely wet the medium with rainwater. You can also use tap water that does not contain salt, alkali or calcium. Afterwards, sprinkle the seeds on the surface of the moist medium without covering them with soil (Note: covering the soil depends on personal feeling. I still cover the seeds with soil when sowing, but it is not recommended for novices to cover the seeds with soil). The sowing density is about 10,000 seeds per square meter. Of course, this density can be achieved for a very long time without transplanting seedlings. Then cover the sowing container with a transparent sheet to seal the sowing environment and increase the humidity, and place the pot in a shaded place without direct sunlight. Keep the internal temperature around 15 degrees and do not exceed 20 degrees (Note: This is the sowing method of this German. According to our own experience, a sowing temperature of 25 degrees for Lithops may be a better choice).

Sowing on a windowsill (home sowing) generally performs better than sowing in a greenhouse. Because the temperature in the greenhouse is too high and the direct sunlight is too strong, home sowing can also bring a good temperature difference between day and night, which can also help the seeds germinate. After two weeks of keeping in a sealed environment, the germination stage is almost over. Only then can you remove the cover to ventilate the seedlings.

Lithops seedling maintenance

In the first few weeks after uncovering the seedlings, you need to spray water several times a day, and never let the surface dry out. Also slowly increase light intensity, but during the first year of planting, be sure to avoid full sun on hot, sunny days, as this could be devastating.

Try not to use chemicals, and don't use fertilizers on seedlings less than one year old. As the plants grow, the intensity and amount of light they receive should be continuously increased, but don't forget to provide shade in hot, sunny weather. (The author wrote a sentence here: Lithops require shading all their life. I guess it means that many desert tropical plants also rely on certain shelters around them to survive). If your climate provides good sunlight year-round, you won't have to do much shading.

In contrast, after a long, dark German winter, Lithops would likely die within an hour in the spring sunshine.

Lithops can grow well under proper shade. Some large farms also use the shade method to grow Lithops. Plants grown using this method usually grow faster and become larger, but tend to grow taller and become soft (note: what we call leggy growth). Lithops grown under such conditions often have poor color expression. If you compare a large green Jade with a smaller plant with bright red and black stripes and a yellow skin, you will see the huge difference good lighting can make. This is why I only shade my plants when necessary.

Do Lithops need fertilizer?

Lithops require almost no fertilizer. I use a liquid fertilizer with N:P:K=8:8:8 two or three times a year during the growing season. Like many growers, I have increased the frequency and amount of watering for Lithops, but for safety reasons, I recommend not watering them in the hot summer. And I completely cut off water in February and March every year. (Note: I am also confused about the maintenance of this part. Compared with the dormancy in winter, many of us start to cut off water in December until around March of the following year. And under good ventilation conditions, it is no problem to give appropriate water in summer. This paragraph is just for reference).

I only use insecticide on lithops once a year during the growing season, an insecticide called Imidachloprid in German. Other than that I don't use any chemicals unless there is a very serious pest problem.

Except for the sowing stage, Lithops like warm days and cool nights (implying that the sowing temperature is low temperature?). In winter, I tried to let Lithops survive in conditions without any heating, but it seemed that some of them died. However, after two consecutive nights of cultivation in temperatures of minus six degrees Celsius, my Lithops also gave me the surprise of zero losses (probably some test products).

When does Lithops bloom?

With sufficient light, Lithops will bloom for the first time three years after planting. Some lithops may bloom in their first year, but the chances of them continuing to bloom in the second year are low. Moreover, it is relatively easy to obtain seeds from flowering plants. If you want to give yourself a surprise, let the little bugs do the pollination work for you. If you like to pursue simple varieties, then drive the insects out of your garden and use a small brush to pollinate your plants (remember, one brush for each variety) (Note: I remember hearing a friend question the pollination of numbered plants when they were grown abroad. At that time, I remember that friend said, "I don't believe that foreigners use one brush to brush each variety", so we should still be able to trust them). Most lithops can pollinate each other and produce hybrid seeds, but the little bugs don't care about that.

Repotting Lithops

Lithops planted in small pots need to be repotted every 2-3 years, but lithops planted in large containers can be kept for many years without repotting. They are basically watered by watering rather than immersing the pots, and the water can flow out from the bottom of the container. Once again, I use pure volcanic rock to grow my lithops. When repotting, leave only 2-3 cm of the main root. This will make it easier for the Lithops to take root and allow the roots to grow straighter in the new pot. If the roots of Lithops are too long, their sides will slowly bend (I don't know if a crooked root system will have any impact).

Lithops molting

You can clean the shell of the old plant, but the lower part of the old plant is generally thin and brittle, so it is safer to leave the old skin on the plant. Otherwise, Lithops can easily fall off the large cluster. If this unfortunately happens, immediately put the fallen lithops into the medium and keep the medium moist. Be sure not to let the temperature drop below 15 degrees.