What to do if chrysanthemums do not bud or bloom

The reason why chrysanthemums do not bud or bloom

Internal factors

Chrysanthemum is a short-day plant. Under the condition of ensuring less than 12 hours of sunlight per day, chrysanthemum can differentiate flower buds as early as the vegetative growth stage. In addition to short days, the chrysanthemum also requires lower temperatures and a day-night temperature difference of about 10°C. Only under these environmental conditions can the top buds of the chrysanthemum be transformed into flower buds and then form buds and bloom. Therefore, the reason why chrysanthemums do not bud or bloom may be due to the lack of the above conditions.

External factors

Improper daily maintenance will also affect the differentiation of chrysanthemum flower buds, which is the external factor for chrysanthemums not blooming. For example, the following situations will affect the differentiation of flower buds: excessive watering during the seedling stage, untimely pruning, failure to pinch and prune at the appropriate time, improper fertilization, excessive nitrogen fertilizer and lack of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which will cause the stems and leaves to grow too long, and the buds on the plant will become leaf buds, etc.

How to solve the problem of chrysanthemum not budding or blooming

illumination

Generally, after the chrysanthemum has grown about ten leaves normally, it is necessary to maintain the length of daylight within 14 to 15 hours. It is necessary to shorten the daylight time and provide the chrysanthemum with a growth environment under short-day conditions as much as possible, which can promote flower bud differentiation.

Watering

Remember the characteristics of chrysanthemums: "large demand for water, afraid of waterlogging, and drought-resistant". Water them sufficiently in summer, generally once in the morning and once in the evening. The amount of watering should be gradually reduced after flowering, and watering should also be reduced appropriately in winter. Be careful to prevent water from accumulating in the basin. Ensure good ventilation.

Fertilization

When repotting, you need to make sure to apply sufficient base fertilizer. For convenience, you can choose leftover food at home as the base fertilizer. After autumn, apply fully decomposed thin liquid fertilizer once every week or so. During the bud formation period, it is necessary to apply 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate or 0.5%-1% superphosphate solution 2 or 3 times.

Topping

Pinching can promote branching of chrysanthemums. It is usually done in sunny weather, after the chrysanthemum seedlings have formed a root system, that is, about 3 weeks after the chrysanthemum seedlings are cut, the first pinching is done to remove the top shoots that have not yet developed. The second pinching is when the new buds at the top sprout. When 4 or 5 leaves grow, remove the leaves that are not growing well. Pinch the tops about once a month thereafter, and stop pinching after late August. Keep the branches that are growing well and cut off the rest to prevent wasting nutrients. Remember to apply decomposed fertilizer after each pinching to promote the growth of side buds.