Garlic cultivation time and management methods

Garlic cultivation time and management methods

As we all know, garlic prefers a cool climate, and its above-ground parts grow best in a temperature range of 12 to 16°C. For seedlings, the best time to overwinter is when they have 4 to 6 leaves, which usually takes about 40 to 45 days from sowing. When the daily average temperature drops below 7°C, garlic growth will stagnate. Garlic seedlings have strong cold resistance and can withstand low temperatures of -7 to -10°C. Under conditions of 0 to 4°C, garlic can complete the vernalization process after 30 to 40 days. Let’s learn about garlic cultivation and planting techniques and management.

1. Planting time

For autumn garlic planted outdoors, the appropriate sowing time is late September to early October, which is the period between the Autumnal Equinox and the Cold Dew. If sowing is too early, the seedlings may be damaged by frost, and if sowing is too late, the growth period may be shortened due to the influence of high temperatures in the later period, ultimately leading to reduced yield and poor quality.

2. Land preparation and fertilization

Garlic has a shallow root system, mainly distributed in the soil layer of 10 to 25 cm. It prefers moist, fertile, loose, breathable and water- and fertilizer-retaining soil. Garlic is not drought-tolerant and is suitable for planting in neutral or slightly acidic soil. It should be avoided to be planted continuously with onion and garlic vegetables . Sufficient base fertilizer needs to be applied before planting. It is recommended to use fully decomposed organic fertilizer or biological organic fertilizer, as well as slow- release fertilizer . Generally, 4,000 to 5,000 kilograms of organic fertilizer and 100 kilograms of biological fertilizer are applied per mu. After fertilizing, plow the soil 20 to 30 centimeters deep, harrow the ground, and make flat ridges at a distance of 1.2 meters. Avoid using raw manure as it may attract breeding flies to lay eggs. Garlic absorbs the most nitrogen during its growth period. The production of 50 kg of garlic requires 0.75 kg of pure nitrogen, 0.18 kg of phosphorus pentoxide, and 0.7 kg of potassium oxide. Sulfur is also an important element. Increasing the application of phosphorus fertilizer can help garlic grow larger, increase garlic shoot yield, and reduce the rate of head cracking.

3. Sowing and dense planting

Before sowing, you should select seeds and cloves, and choose large, hard, fresh garlic cloves as seeds. To prevent diseases, the seed petals can be treated with specific agents before sowing. There are two sowing methods: furrow sowing and hole sowing. The sowing depth is about 5 to 6 cm. Make sure there is 2 to 3 cm of soil covering the top of the seed petal. The planting density varies according to the variety. Generally, 30,000 to 35,000 plants are planted per acre, and the spacing between rows and plants is about 8 to 9 cm × 20 cm. Appropriate density of planting can help increase yield, but too dense a planting will result in small garlic bulbs, low commercial grade and reduced economic benefits. Experiments have shown that the number of plants planted per acre should not exceed 60,000, with 35,000 to 40,000 being appropriate. After sowing, level the bed surface or cover it with mulch, then water it.

4. Management before wintering

Garlic will germinate 5 to 7 days after sowing. After germination, control watering appropriately, especially for those covered with plastic film, where only one watering is needed. During the germination stage, check the seedlings frequently and break the film in time to guide the seedlings out. If the base fertilizer is insufficient, you can apply "seedling-promoting fertilizer" one month after the seedlings emerge. Apply freezing water before the land freezes. If you don’t cover the ground with mulch, you can cover it with cow and horse manure and chopped grass before winter to protect the seedlings. When the garlic seedlings grow to 5 to 6 leaves, specific agents can be sprayed to promote root growth and prevent frost.

5. Spring Management

After the temperature warms up in spring, remove the pre-winter covering in time, till the soil and loosen it to increase the ground temperature. Choose a sunny and warm day to water the plants for greening. If the base fertilizer is insufficient, you can apply "greening fertilizer" in combination with the greening water. In early April, as the temperature rises, the growth of garlic sprouts accelerates and the demand for water and fertilizer increases. When garlic shoots begin to emerge, spray specific agents and combine watering with topdressing of "shoot-promoting fertilizer" rich in nitrogen. After applying the moss-growing fertilizer, spray two more times with specific pesticides. After 40 to 45 days, the above-ground part stops growing and nutrients are transferred to the garlic. The garlic bulbs will start to expand 18 to 20 days after the moss is pulled out. During this period, you can apply "head-promoting fertilizer" to keep the ground moist, promote the expansion of the garlic bulbs, and increase the yield.

6. Harvest

Garlic shoots must be harvested at the right time. Harvesting too early or too late will affect the yield and quality. Stop watering 3 to 5 days before pulling out the moss to reduce the turgor pressure in the plant. Moss pulling should be done at noon or in the afternoon in sunny and warm weather. 18 to 20 days after pulling out the moss, the garlic leaves begin to fade and the pseudostems become soft, and then they can be harvested. After harvesting, dry the garlic in the field for 2 to 3 days. When the stems and leaves are dry, bundle them into bundles, pile them or braid them into garlic braids, and hang them in a rain-proof and ventilated place for storage or sale.

The above is an introduction to the key points of garlic cultivation and management techniques. Now is the time for autumn sowing of garlic, so those who want to plant garlic can hurry up.

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