Cut flowers like this in spring, and they will be full of flowers in 2 months

1. Camellia

Cut off the dense branches

▼As shown in the figure below, the distance between branches A, B and D is relatively close, so you may consider cutting off branch A. Branches B and C are parallel and closely spaced, so you may consider cutting off one of them.

▼In the picture below, the branches at the top are very dense. You can consider cutting off some of them. × indicates the location where pruning should be done. Make the cut as close to the node as possible.

After trimming

Cut off dead branches at the top

▼If the top buds are necrotic, branch pruning should be carried out. Firstly, it can accumulate nutrients and reduce waste; secondly, it can make room for the growth of subsequent branches. The position indicated by the double arrow is the tip for branch reduction pruning.

Comparison chart after trimming

Cut off the dead branches

▼A and B are the lower branches, which are weaker (than branch C). Leaving them will consume too much nutrients of the plant, so they should be cut off. Make the cut as close to the node as possible.

▼The red fork part is also the hind branch, which is weaker than branches A and B. Leaving it will consume too much nutrients of the plant, so it should be cut off.

Comparison chart after trimming

Cut off overlapping branches

▼The overlapping young branches sprouting from the main stem may be considered to be cut off to accumulate nutrients and reduce waste. The red cross part is a pruning reminder. You can trim at the position indicated by the double arrow.

Remove the axillary buds

▼The denser branches at the top can be thinned out, and the branches with red crosses are pruning tips; the arrows indicate axillary buds, which should be removed at the same time.

Comparison chart after trimming

▼Leaf buds that cannot grow normally should be cut off. The positions indicated by the double arrows are pruning tips.

▼The downward and horizontal leaf buds should be wiped off, as indicated by the arrows.

▼The arrows indicate lateral (secondary) buds, which should be removed. If the buds are not removed in time, parallel thin branches will grow. See the second picture below.

If it is not removed, it will eventually grow like the picture below. Branch A is the branch that was not removed in time. The main bud will grow into branch B, and the side bud will grow into branch C. At this time, branch C must be cut off. You can trim it in the red × part.

▼The overlapping horizontal buds after flowering should be cut off, which is the bud pointed by the arrow.

▼The arrows indicate axillary buds, which should also be removed in time. If they are not removed, the nutrients will easily be taken away.

▼The branch on the left in the picture below has buds but is relatively thin and weak, so it should also be cut off to avoid nutrient consumption.

Comparison chart after trimming

Cut off the flowering branches after flowering

▼Branch A is a short branch that bears flowers in the current year. If it is left after flowering, it will consume too much nutrients of the plant and should be cut off. The red forked branches are pruning reminders. The arrows indicate axillary buds, which should be erased.

How to keep branches

▼You can consider leaving 1-2 branches on each strong branch, and the tender branches in the red fork part should be removed. You can consider whether to remove branch A according to the needs of the shape.

Too high branches retract

▼Branches that are too high should be pruned back so that new buds sprout below the cut. The plant will become fuller. The horizontal line indicated by the double arrows is a pruning reminder.

2. Gardenia

Gardenia before pruning

Cut off parallel branches

▼Parallel branches with short spacing can be considered for pruning. The red cross part is a pruning reminder.

Comparison chart after trimming

Cut off overlapping branches

▼Overlapping and crossing inward branches can be considered to be cut off, and the red cross part is a pruning reminder.

Comparison chart after trimming

Cut off the multi-branch

▼For multiple branches, remove the weak ones and keep the strong ones. The red cross parts are pruning tips.

Comparison chart after trimming

Remove suckers

▼Too many and dense suckers (branches sprouting from the base) at the stump will hinder the shape of the plant. Plants that consume too much nutrients need to be pruned.

Comparison chart after trimming

Remove excess flower buds

▼For multiple flower buds, remove the weak ones and keep the strong ones. If there are multiple flower buds on the same branch, keep at most two strong buds. The red × is the part that can be cut off.

After trimming

Root pruning

If the soil is not turned over and the pot is not changed in time, the final result will be as shown in the picture below. The roots will cover the wall of the pot, the new and old roots will overlap, and some roots may even be damaged. The final result will be that the growth of the plant will be affected.

After breaking up the soil, I found that the roots were in a nodular shape. This usually happens because the plant has been planted for too long (several years), the plant is aging and the root system is declining. Another possibility is that the plant was not repotted in time, causing the root system to become nodular. Generally, if the root system becomes like this, it needs to be eliminated in time. If you want to develop it into a bonsai, you can cut off the nodular roots and replant them.

Another example is a root system like the one in the picture below. Although there are no nodules, because the flowerpot is too small, the tips of the new roots have been damaged. Similarly, the damaged roots must be trimmed before potting.

Be careful not to damage the intact roots when cutting off the old roots. You can wash the roots completely with water and then cut off the necrotic parts of the roots. As for how to distinguish good roots from bad roots, you can look at the places pointed by the arrows in the picture below. Are the colors above and below different? The black part is the dead part, just cut it off.

Effect picture after trimming

3. Osmanthus

Prune away weak branches

▼Weak branches that sprout closely on strong branches may be considered to be pruned off to accumulate nutrients and reduce waste. The red cross part is a pruning reminder.

Comparison chart after trimming

▼For multiple branches, remove the weak ones and keep the strong ones. The red cross parts are pruning tips.

Cut off overlapping young branches on the main trunk

▼The overlapping young branches sprouting from the main stem may be considered to be cut off to accumulate nutrients and reduce waste. The red cross part is a pruning reminder.

Comparison chart after trimming

Inner branch pruning

▼The double arrows indicate the inner horizontal branches, and the branches with red crosses are pruning tips.

Inner branch pruning

▼The densely spaced weak branches in the inner part can be considered to be pruned off, and the red cross part is a pruning reminder.

Parallel branch pruning

▼A and B are parallel branches. If the branches are closely spaced, you may consider cutting off B. The red cross part is a pruning reminder.

After pruning, the cut should be as close to the branch node as possible and smooth.

Osmanthus top pruning

▼Weak branches with dense spacing at the top may be considered to be pruned off to accumulate nutrients and reduce waste. The red cross part is a pruning reminder.

Comparison chart after trimming

▼The branches with dense spacing at the top may be considered to be cut off to accumulate nutrients and reduce waste. The red cross part is a pruning reminder.

Comparison chart after trimming

▼The double arrows indicate the inner horizontal branches, and the branches with red crosses are pruning tips.

Osmanthus stump pruning

1. Cut off the dense branches. The red cross part is the pruning reminder.

Comparison chart after trimming

2. According to the needs of the potted plant, leave 2 to 3 branches as the main trunk, and the rest can be cut off. Make the cut as close to the node as possible.

The main stem is finally trimmed and shaped

Panorama of osmanthus after pruning

Cut osmanthus branches

4. Jasmine

Jasmine before pruning

Cut off overlapping branches

▼A, B, and C are crossed and overlapping branches, D and E are crossed and overlapping branches, and the spacing between F and G is relatively close. You may consider cutting G off at the place marked with a red ×.

Branch retraction

▼Branch A is a strong branch that has grown wildly and has taken shape. It can be pruned back by cutting it at the horizontal line indicated by the double arrows. The branches with red crosses are pruning tips.

▼Branch A is a diseased (dead) branch and should be cut off. Branch B is a wildly growing branch. Wildly growing branches are branches that grow vigorously with water and fertilizer. They should be pruned back to allow side branches to grow.

Cut off old branches

▼Jasmine blooms most vigorously on 3-5 year old seedlings, and then ages year by year and needs to be re-pruned and renewed in time.

A and B are 4-5 year old branches, C is a 2 year old branch, and D is a current year branch. You may consider cutting off branches A and B from the base. If branches A and B are left on the mother plant, the side branches that sprout from them will also be weak. If you do not consider pruning for the time being, you can eliminate the plants at the appropriate time.

▼Branch A and side branch B are 4-5 year old branches, and should be pruned according to the principle of "removing the weak and keeping the strong, removing the old and keeping the new", leaving branch C (new) and pruning branch C accordingly, that is, the place marked by the red double arrows, to allow it to grow side branches. The horizontal lines indicated by the double arrows and the branches with red crosses are pruning tips.

After trimming

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