Calendula cutting method

Branch selection

We usually call the branches for cuttings cuttings. Usually we combine the work of pinching and cut off the thicker, disease-free and insect-free tops as cuttings for direct cuttings.

Matrix selection

The soil for cuttings is usually nutrient soil, river sand or peat soil. Due to limited conditions, it is difficult to get ideal soil for home cuttings. Slightly coarser sand can also be used, but it should be rinsed with clean water before use to prevent it from containing pathogens. It is best not to use sea sand or river sand from saline-alkali areas, as they are not suitable for the growth of marigolds.

In fact, the cutting method is very simple. As long as the branches and soil are prepared, you can directly insert the branches into the soil.

Management after cutting

After cuttings, control the temperature at 18~25 ℃. If the temperature is lower than 18 ℃, it will be difficult for the branches to head and the growth will be slow. If the temperature is higher than 25 ℃, the cut ends of the cuttings will easily rot, and the higher the temperature, the greater the degree of rot.

Ensure sufficient humidity after cuttings and spray water 1 to 3 times a day. During the maintenance process, block out 50% to 80% of the sunlight, and move it to a shaded area after the roots grow out.

Potting or transplanting

When potting the seedlings, first put a 2 to 2 cm thick coarse-grained substrate or expanded clay at the bottom of the pot as a water filter layer, and sprinkle a layer of fully decomposed organic fertilizer as base fertilizer, about 1 to 2 cm thick, then cover with a layer of substrate, about 1 to 2 cm thick, and then put the plants in to separate the fertilizer from the roots to avoid root burn.

1 to 2 weeks after potting, when the seedlings grow to 6 to 10 cm and have more than 6 leaves, remove the tops. Keep 3 to 4 leaves to promote branching.