Colorful taro: wintering starts in SeptemberStarting from September , the leaves of the taro will gradually begin to turn yellow. This is normal and there is no need to worry. Gradually the leaves will wilt and droop, and you need to control watering and stop fertilizing. When all the leaves have withered, remove the tubers from the pot, place them in a well-lit, ventilated and dry environment to dry for 10 days, and then store them. Store it in sterilized dry sand (be sure to keep the sand dry, moisture will cause the tubers to rot easily), and control the temperature between 10~20 ℃ (temperatures below 10 ℃ are prone to freezing, and temperatures above 22 ℃ will break hibernation). Spray water once every half a month to keep the sand surface slightly moist. When digging tubers, be careful to avoid damaging the roots and affecting their growth next year. Colorful taro: tuber storageIn fact, the focus of winter maintenance is on the storage of tubers. There are two main methods. One is to store the tubers with the front side facing up so that they can germinate quickly when sown in spring. The disadvantage is that the growth is uneven throughout the year. The main buds grow vigorously, but the other small buds are uneven. The second method is to plant the tuber upside down with the back side facing upwards. Although the germination will be slower, more buds will be produced and the growth of each bud will be more balanced. Colorful taro: Spring re-seedingIn the early spring of the following year, the tubers are removed and divided. Alternatively, you can break off the small buds that grow around and plant them directly, but each divided tuber must have at least one bud, and apply charcoal or ash to the cut for preservation. Use leaf mold mixed with rotted chicken manure and bone meal as the potting soil. After watering enough, place it in a shady place. After the seedlings emerge, move it to a semi-shaded place for maintenance, and pay attention to maintaining the surrounding air humidity. |
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