Cutting timeIt can be carried out from April to July, and the survival rate of cuttings is highest during the cherry blossom season. Selection and processing of cuttingsCut healthy branches, about 15 cm in length, with new shoots of the current year at the top and one-year-old branches at the bottom. Before grafting Japanese late cherry blossoms, remove the lower leaves and only keep the upper leaves. Then place 2-3 cm from the base of the cuttings into a 1000 ppm naphthaleneacetic acid solution. The cuttings need to be planted immediately after dipping 2-3 cm from the base. Cutting methodUse bricks to build a seedbed 20 cm high and 1 meter wide. Cover the bottom of the seedbed with 2 or 3 cm of river sand, and then fill it with 15 cm thick vermiculite. Install a centrifugal nozzle every 1 meter, or use a sprayer boom connected to the tap water pipe for spraying. In early May, you need to build a shade shed and use branches as a fence around it to block the wind. You can also set up a plastic shed over the seedbed. The cuttings are inserted vertically in rows into vermiculite, maintaining a plant spacing of 2 cm and a row spacing of 4 cm. The appropriate cutting depth is between 6-8 cm. After the cuttings are completed, water them thoroughly. Post-insertion managementSpray the leaves frequently, especially at noon when the temperature is high. The relative humidity of the air needs to be maintained above 90%, while the humidity of the vermiculite should be maintained at around 60%. This indicator must be reached before rooting, especially before callus formation. In early May, a shade shed needs to be set up to prevent excessive sunlight. When the temperature in the plastic shed is higher than 35℃, you need to open both ends of the shed for ventilation, and then seal it after the temperature drops to 27℃. If the weather is hot, you can spray water outside the plastic shed to cool it down while avoiding excessive water content in the vermiculite caused by spraying too much water. |
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