She has been growing flowers for 5 years, and her fuchsias have grown from one pot to 10 pots, and they never die in summer!

1. Fuchsia cuttings

I personally like fuchsia very much and have grown quite a few of them. Here I would like to recommend to all flower lovers some of my pots of fuchsia, all of which are propagated by cuttings. It is best to grow them in spring and autumn when the temperature is above 18-20 degrees. Cut a small section of 10cm to 12cm from the middle and lower part, and keep 2 to 3 leaflets.

I always soak it in rooting water for about 20 minutes first, so that the rooting success rate will be higher. After soaking, take it out and dry it, then put it into a basin filled with sterile and moist sand.

Place the planted fuchsia in a cool place to keep it moist. It will take about 15-20 days for it to take root and sprout new leaves. Continue to cultivate it for about 40 days and then you can divide it and plant it in a pot and grow it normally.

2. Soil preparation

I prepare the soil myself when I grow flowers. Fortunately, there is leaf mold at home, which saves me a lot of trouble. I like to find leaf mold made from straw piles, sift out impurities, dry it in the sun for a few days, and then store it in a cool place at home. This soil is very nutritious and can be used for most flowers!

In addition to leaf mold, I usually mix soil with sawdust + leaf mold + river sand + compound fertilizer + soil pesticide. The fuchsia seedlings will adapt to the pot quickly once planted and will grow rapidly.

Also use some ordinary garden soil and put the prepared nutrient soil on the top layer so that the seedlings can grow more stably.

3. Fertilizer

Many flower lovers have flowers that bloom less or not at all. I think it may be because they don’t apply enough fertilizer. When preparing the soil like I did above, you also need to add some ingredients. For example, I would put some pine cones at the bottom of the pot. These were picked up when I went out. They are breathable and can serve as fertilizer.

Another way is to spray the leaves of the fuchsia with 0.25% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution three times a month, with an interval of about ten days between each other before the fuchsia sprouts new branches and blooms. This will ensure that your flowers will bloom to the fullest. This is how I grow most of the flowers in my house.

4. Keep in a ventilated and semi-shaded place

When growing fuchsias, pay attention to ventilation, place them in a semi-shaded place at home with scattered light, and avoid direct sunlight in summer. If there is no ventilation, it is easy to cause gray mold. Gray mold starts with small mold spots, but in severe cases, the branches will rot and die.

5. Pruning

Fuchsia also needs proper pruning and topping, removal of side buds, and appropriate branch pulling to prune overcrowded branches, inner branches, overgrown branches, weak and thin branches, and diseased and dead branches. It is easy to grow more branches after pruning, and the plant can even overflow the pot, so don’t be reluctant!

6. Insect diseases

Like many flowers, fuchsia is also susceptible to insects. I am a fruit farmer and have seen many insects. I am very professional in insect control and I have some methods that can be used on almost all flowers. I will say more about them here for your reference.

Observation: At noon when the temperature is high and the light is strong, insects are more active. At this time, if you observe the back of the flowers and leaves, it is easy to see what kind of insects are causing trouble.

Insecticide time: No matter what insecticide you spray, it is best to spray both sides of the flowers and leaves evenly after 5:00 pm, without dripping. Only spray once and do not repeat, because the temperature is low and there is no light at this time, the pests take a long time to absorb the medicine and are easily poisoned and die, plus the medicine is not easy to volatilize, it can effectively kill insects.

I have tried many methods of killing insects, including buying a lot of medicines and making my own insecticides. Here are two of the most effective ones:

a. Homemade laundry detergent insecticide

Before using neutral laundry detergent to kill insects, add boiling water to dissolve it first. Do not use cold water to dissolve it because cold water cannot dissolve the laundry detergent particles. Once the particles adhere to the leaves of the plant, necrotic spots will appear in 3 to 5 days. In severe cases, the entire leaf will be burned or even fall off.

Add washing powder to boiling water and stir evenly, then let it settle and cool, then add the required amount of water for mist spray. The method of adding water is: 0.5g washing powder + about 400g water. I dissolve the washing powder first and then add water. You can also add enough water at one time and use it directly.

Spray the detergent water directly onto the back of the leaves, don't pour it into the soil. Detergent water can irritate the roots, so be careful. Otherwise, your flowers will die.

b. Buy insecticide

I think imidacloprid and avermectin are relatively effective. Before spraying the medicine, read the instructions carefully, mix it with water according to the instructions, put it into a spray bottle, and then spray it on the insect leaves. Aphids will be poisoned for about half an hour to an hour, and some of them will have their butts raised high. The red spiders will slowly turn from red to black.

Two hours after spraying, you can also spray water on the leaves to wash away the residual medicine, and then move them to a cool and ventilated place for a few days to avoid burning leaves, scorching leaves, curling leaves and other phenomena.

7. Repotting

Another point is to change the pot. It is best to change the pot once a year, and the nutrition will generally be no problem. I don't choose the season when I change pots. I changed pots recently, but it is more difficult for the plant to adapt to the new pot in summer. I suggest that you move the roots and soil to a larger pot together.

8. Autumn to Summer

Fuchsia likes a semi-shaded environment and can adapt to a temperature of around 18-28 degrees. It will enter a dormant period when the temperature exceeds 30 degrees, so it is best to water it less in summer (water it only when the soil is dry), place it in a cool and ventilated place, and sprinkle water on the ground around the flowerpot to keep it moist and cool when it is hot.

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