Why won’t my chrysanthemums bloom? The answers are all here!

Why won’t the chrysanthemums in my house bloom?

Ignoring the internal factors of chrysanthemum flowering

Chrysanthemum is a short-day plant. Flower buds can be differentiated under conditions of less than 12 hours of light per day, and then under conditions of short daylight, low temperature, and a temperature difference of about 10°C between day and night, the top buds can be transformed into flower buds and produce buds and flowers.

Therefore, artificially shortening the light period and extending the dark period to more than 14 hours to create short-day conditions can promote flower bud differentiation and advance flowering.

Inadequate routine maintenance

Improper maintenance. For example, excessive watering during the seedling stage, excessive nitrogen fertilizer application but lack of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, untimely pruning, pinching and pruning too early or too late, etc.

Daily care tips for chrysanthemums

soil

The best medium for chrysanthemum is well-drained, loose, fertile, slightly acidic sandy loam.

Generally, river sand with good permeability and air permeability is selected, and garden soil and humus soil are added to make the mixture. The ratio is humus soil: garden soil: river sand = 4:4:2.

If conditions permit, it is best to use formalin or carbendazim or other disinfectants to spray the culture soil at the concentration specified in the instructions for disinfection.

sunshine

Chrysanthemum is a short-day plant. Under long-day conditions, chrysanthemum is conducive to vegetative growth; under short-day conditions, it is conducive to reproductive growth, that is, it is easy to bloom under short-day conditions.

Generally, after a chrysanthemum plant has grown to 10 leaves normally and the daylight length is within 14.5 hours, flower buds begin to differentiate. After flower bud differentiation, the day length limit is 13.5 hours.

Watering

The water requirements of chrysanthemums can be summarized as "large demand, afraid of waterlogging, and drought-resistant." Therefore, when watering, you must strictly follow this characteristic.

Water the plants sufficiently in summer, once in the morning and once in the evening, and do not water at noon. After flowering, the amount of water gradually decreases. In case of heavy rain, pay attention to drainage. Just reduce watering appropriately in winter.

Finally, water must not accumulate. Water must not accumulate. Water must not accumulate.

Fertilization

When repotting chrysanthemums, be sure to apply enough base fertilizer. The base fertilizer can be leftover food, rotten vegetable leaves, etc.

After the beginning of autumn, you need to apply enough fertilizer and water. Generally, apply a thin layer of bone slice sauce residue water once a week. When the buds are about to bloom, apply superphosphate and 0.1% potassium phosphate solution again. The blooming flowers will be more colorful then.

Note that you should water and loosen the soil in time after each fertilization.

Topping

Pinching is the main technical measure to promote chrysanthemum branching. If you don't pay attention to pinching, the chrysanthemums will grow disorderly and their growth potential will be affected. Pinching should be done in sunny weather. In rainy weather, the wounds are prone to rot or mildew, so pinching is not suitable.

The first pinching can be done when the chrysanthemum seedlings have formed a root system, which is about 3 weeks after the chrysanthemum seedlings are cut. When pinching, remove the top shoots that have not yet developed.

The second time to pinch is when new buds appear in the top leaf axils and 4-5 leaves grow. After removing the weak leaves, pinch once every month or so. Stop pinching after late August, select branches with good growth potential, and cut off the rest to prevent nutrient waste.

After each pinching, you should apply decomposed fertilizer once to make the side buds sprout strong.

How to make chrysanthemums bloom earlier or later?

Early flowering

During July and August, move the potted chrysanthemums into a dark room every afternoon to completely cut off light. Control the sunlight to 8 to 10 hours throughout the day, but ventilate outdoors at night to see dew, and control the night temperature between 15-28℃).

Flower buds will be visible after 50-70 days, allowing the chrysanthemum to bloom early on National Day in October. If there is no dark room, you can use black paper or black cloth to block out the light, but make sure that no light leaks into the lower part.

Delayed flowering

That is, when the chrysanthemum buds appear in early September, use lights to supplement the light. Use a 100 watt (W) light bulb in the evening. Increasing light exposure by 2 to 3 hours within one meter of the plant can inhibit bud formation. Stopping light exposure in November can delay flowering until December.

In short, in short, you must remember that chrysanthemum is a short-day plant. Too much light will not bloom.