Rose grafting techniques and methods

1. Grafting time

The time for rose grafting is generally between summer and autumn, when the temperature is not so hot, which is more conducive to its survival. Grafting can also be done in spring, but avoid the rainy season, otherwise it will be detrimental to its growth.

2. Stock Treatment

Wild rose is generally the best rootstock for roses. The rootstock should first be processed with roots. If the root system is too developed, it can be cut into multiple parts. Roots with nodules cannot be used as they are not conducive to survival and growth. Cut 2-3 cm above the root system, and make a vertical cut between the bark and the wood at the incision, leaving a small gap.

3. Spikewood Treatment

The rose spike wood generally chooses branches that are 10 cm long. Cut off the thorns on the branches and determine its up and down direction according to the position of the bud. Make a wedge shape at the bottom and scrape off the bark on one side to expose the wood.

4. Grafting

Insert the lower part of the rose spike into the notch of the rootstock so that the side with the scraped epidermis fits against the wood of the rootstock. Use tape to secure the joints and plant them in plain sand. If the temperature is not high, you need to cover it with a plastic bag and place it in a sunny place. Generally, new shoots will grow after a week. Low temperature will delay the growth of shoots, but generally not more than 1 month. If the branches turn black, it means the grafting has failed.