Key points for apple tree management in March

“A year’s plan begins with spring.” Spring is a critical period for orchard management, especially management before budding, which is of paramount importance. Taking scientific management measures during the budding period can not only effectively regulate the growth potential of branches, improve lighting conditions, promote bud germination and transformation, but also achieve twice the result with half the effort. At the same time, before spring bud break is also a critical period for disease and pest control. Let’s learn about apple tree management methods in March.

1. Cut buds on vigorous branches

For vigorous branches, bud cutting can be done 7 to 10 days before germination. The bud carving time should not be too early, otherwise the wound will easily lose water, causing the bud to lose water, freeze or even dry up. The method of bud carving is determined according to the strength of the branches: if the branches are too strong, bud carving can be used (except for the weak buds at the tip and the parts at the base that do not need to branch out, all other buds should be carved). Due to the heterogeneity of buds, the following two situations should be paid attention to when carving buds:

When the branches are upright, the buds are in similar condition and all of them can be carved before the buds are cut.

When the branches grow horizontally, the buds on the back are easy to germinate, while the buds below the back are not easy to germinate. Therefore, the buds below the back and the dorsal lateral buds are carved before budding, while the buds on the back can be carved after budding or not carved at all.

After bud carving, most of the buds germinate, diverting nutrients and thus controlling the vigorous growth of branches. If the method is correct, the buds can grow into leaf branches and form terminal flower buds. For branches that grow vigorously in general, the method of interval bud carving can be adopted. The specific operation is the same as the above situation.

On specific branches, carving the full buds on vigorous branches can evenly disperse nutrients, while ring cutting on weak and vigorous branches can concentrate nutrients. The purpose of both is to promote effective branch growth.

2. Small and weak branches suppress the top and promote sprouting

Suppressing the top bud and promoting budding is to break off the top buds of small and weak branches with insufficient growth before budding, inhibit the extension growth of the top buds, and promote the formation of flower buds in the second, third and fourth buds. The operation objects are branches that are not full and have poor accumulation, and the time is before germination. For branches 5 to 15 cm long, break off the top buds; for branches longer than 15 cm, break off the top buds and then rotate every 5 to 6 buds. Thicker branches can be ring-cut in sections. In cold areas, this measure can be carried out just before germination. It can effectively solve the problem of weak and vigorous trees being difficult to bloom, and the effect is remarkable.

3. Ring cutting of weak and vigorous branches

For weak branches with incomplete buds, bud cutting will not promote the growth of branches, but this problem can be solved by ring cutting in sections. When girdling, make a girdling cut every 5 to 6 buds (about 15 cm), behind the buds on the back and in front of the buds on the lower side. Ring cutting can concentrate nutrients to 1 to 2 buds behind the ring cutting, thus helping them to grow from weak to strong. After girdling, the branches will usually grow two or three short branches before the first growth stop. If the strength of the branches is uneven, you can gird again at the junction of strong and weak branches.

4. Particularly vigorous branches promote the growth of restraining branches

For particularly vigorous branches, simply cutting buds is difficult to control growth, and it is necessary to promote the growth of restraining branches. The specific method is to leave 2 to 3 buds at the base of the branch and then ring-cut it, so as to encourage the sprouting of 1 to 2 branches after the cut. Through their growth, the vigorous growth of the branch can be restrained, so as to achieve the purpose of flowering and fruiting.

5. Pull branches

The best time to pull branches is when the sap is flowing, the branches are soft, and before flowering and fruiting. By adjusting the angle and azimuth of the branches, you can improve ventilation and light conditions, increase the germination rate, promote flowering, and control the crown. The specific operations are as follows:

Open the larger branches at different angles to bring light in, remove excess large branches, and after germination, rotate the branches at the base and pull them down to avoid affecting light.

The main branches adjust their angles according to growth potential and space: the main branches with weak growth or in need of extension have their tip angles raised and their extension heads shortened; the main branches with vigorous growth or no space are pulled down to cultivate preparatory branches.

The angle of lateral branches is adjusted according to the attachment position and growth potential so that they are evenly distributed diagonally, horizontally, and diagonally downward. Old and weak trees need to transform growth advantages into fruiting advantages.

The spindle-shaped small main branches are pulled to 90~110 degrees according to the rootstock-scion combination, plant spacing and fertilizer and water conditions.

Pulling branches should be smooth, one push, two knead, three press, four position, and strengthen the management of branches and buds on the back.

6. High grafting

Combined with shape modification, methods such as cleft grafting, subcutaneous grafting, tongue grafting, and woody bud grafting are used to high-graft or graft pollinated varieties to optimize the variety structure.

7. Re-cutting before cutting to reduce consumption

For fruit trees with too many flowers, weak tree vigor or good years, they need to be re-pruned before flowering after careful winter pruning. When flower buds and leaf buds can be distinguished, cut back the flower branches and overly long and weak fruiting branches (groups), thin out the weak fruiting branches, and appropriately shorten some of the top flower buds to keep the flower branch rate at 30%. Removing some flower buds in advance can save nutrients, produce larger fruits, and replace flowers with other flowers to overcome alternate years.

If the flower branches are not pinched back, too many flower buds will consume a lot of nutrients, the fruit moss side shoots will be difficult to germinate, and the fruit trees will find it difficult to grow enough leaves to supply the fruit. The fruit will be small, the commercial rate will be low, and the economic benefits will be poor.

When the fertilizer and water conditions are good and the tree is strong, it is generally not advisable to cut back the flowering branches, otherwise it will stimulate the vigorous growth of the fruit moss side shoots and the main branches, consume more nutrients, and be detrimental to fruit growth and branch flowering.

The above is an introduction to the management methods of apple trees in March. You can refer to it based on the actual situation of your own orchard. If you have any other questions, please leave a message.