The flowers you threw away were chopped by me, and they sprouted wildly and were green in a month!

The dying money tree is revived with a few cuts!

The money tree is the most common flower in trash cans. Its root system is weak and easily rotted by water accumulation. Usually when it is thrown away, its roots are rotten and it has no leaves. Even though it looks lifeless, just chop it a few times like I did and it will definitely stay alive!

1. Money trees almost always die due to root rot, so when you pick up the trunk of a money tree and bring it home, the first thing to do is to deal with its rotten roots.

2. Place the roots under the faucet, rinse off the soil, and prepare carbendazim, a machete (saw), and a rooting agent.

3. Use a sharp machete or saw to completely cut off the rotten roots, leaving no rotten area, until the roots have a fresh and clean cut surface like the one shown below.

4. Soak the cleaned bottom trunk of the money tree in the carbendazim solution for about 10-15 minutes. After soaking, take it out, dry it, and then soak it in the rooting agent solution for 20-30 minutes.

Flower lovers who don’t have rooting agents can soak some willow branches in water to act as rooting agents.

5. Use scissors to cut off the branches at the top of the money tree. The shorter the better, because the money tree now has no roots. Leaving branches and leaves will only consume nutrients from the trunk and is not conducive to rooting.

After trimming, place it in a cool and ventilated place to dry for 1-2 days.

6. After the money tree has been dried, it can be prepared for potting. When potting, put a layer of expanded clay or coal slag at the bottom of the pot. The soil can be garden soil mixed with leaf mold and sand. Spray the soil to make it slightly moist.

In addition, don’t choose a pot that is too deep. The pot in the picture below is too deep. If conditions permit, you can choose a shallow pot.

7. After planting the money tree, move it to a cool and ventilated place. No need to water it. After about 10 days, pour rooting powder water into the soil.

8. After about half a month, the money tree will take root. During this period, you must not water it too much. You can just spray water around the trunk. After growing roots, the money tree will slowly sprout small buds!

Cut the dying green radish a few times, and it will bloom into several pots in a month!

I spent a lot of effort growing a green ivy for several years, but it ended up with root rot. Watching the once vibrant vines become shriveled and wilted, is it really hopeless? No! It can still be saved!

1. Select all relatively healthy and strong vines of the green radish, and cut a section every 2 nodes with scissors.

2. Prepare loose and breathable soil. If you have coconut bricks at home, you can use them. If you don’t have coconut bricks, you can mix leaf mold, peat soil, and perlite in a ratio of 2:2:1, spray it with water, and pour it into the flowerpot.

3. Spread the green vines flat on the potting soil and sprinkle a thin layer of soil on the surface.

4. Use a fine-mouthed spray bottle to spray water onto the surface of the basin. After spraying, cover it with a plastic bag or a layer of film to keep it moist.

5. In this season, open the plastic bag and let it ventilate for 1 hour every morning, noon and evening. After about 7-10 days, the vines will grow roots! After the roots grow, if they are exposed to some scattered light, small buds will soon grow!

6. After the green ivy sprouts, apply compound fertilizer and water once every half a month, and it will soon grow out of the pot!

The roots of the Clivia are all rotten. Cut it twice and big white roots will grow out!

After the summer, there will definitely be a lot of Clivias that have root rot, stem rot and other problems due to their dormant period. At this time, don't throw them away immediately. Because even if its roots are rotten, you can still keep it alive using the following method!

1. Use a sharp utility knife to cut off the rotten roots of the Clivia little by little, including the rotten bulbs. Cut them all cleanly, otherwise there is a risk of rot again.

2. After cleaning the Clivia bulbs, soak them in potassium permanganate solution for about half an hour. The ratio of potassium permanganate to clean water is 1:2000. If you don’t have potassium permanganate at home, carbendazim will also work.

3. After disinfection, take out the Clivia and place it in a ventilated place to dry.

4. Prepare clean river sand, wet it, and insert the Clivia bulbs into the river sand. The river sand can also be replaced by vermiculite, sphagnum moss or sawdust.

5. After planting, place the pot in a cool place and water it thoroughly when the soil is dry. In about 15 days, the Clivia will grow some plump white roots!

6. After the Clivia grows roots, it can be transplanted into a loose and breathable potting soil and maintained normally. Do not expose it to the sun after transplanting, place it in a cool place. After 2 weeks for it to adapt, gradually expose it to the sun and water it.

Gardenias with yellow and withered leaves can be saved!

Are the gardenias you bought home in spring and summer still alive? I believe that some flower lovers must have gardenias with yellow leaves, falling leaves, wilting, and dying. So how to save it?

1. Save slightly withered and wilted gardenias

1. Place the withered and wilted gardenia in a ventilated place and use a fine-mouthed spray bottle to slowly wet the soil surface.

2. Cut off the yellow and wilted branches and leaves. Don't cut the leaves that are slightly wilted and drooping. These leaves will slowly recover after absorbing water!

3. Place the gardenia in a cool place and wait for the leaves to slowly recover, then water it thoroughly. During normal maintenance, you can pour water into the bottom tray to ensure that the tray is not short of water.

2. Saving Gardenias with Healthy Roots but Severe Branch and Leaf Withering

1. Move the severely wilted gardenia to a cool and ventilated place and water it thoroughly once.

2. For severely withered gardenia branches, cut off all of them with sharp scissors, and prune them heavily, leaving only main branches about 8 cm long.

3. After cutting, place it in a cool place first. When the soil in the pot turns white, water it thoroughly. It will sprout in less than half a month and can be exposed to the sun after sprouting!

Black rot Kalanchoe can grow into a large pot in one month!

In summer, the roots of Kalanchoe are extremely prone to black rot. If you find that the roots of your Kalanchoe are turning black, you must take decisive action, cut them drastically immediately, and plant them openly!

1. Use sharp scissors to cut off healthy branches of Kalanchoe, and make sure there are no black spots on the cross-section of the branches!

2. Cut the cut Kalanchoe branches into several small sections, each about 5-10 cm. After cutting, place the cut in a well-ventilated place with diffused light to dry.

3. Mix leaf mold and perlite in a ratio of 3:1. If you don’t have leaf mold and perlite at home, you can use garden soil and river sand instead. Stir the soil evenly, spray it with water, and pour it into the flowerpot.

4. Insert the dried Kalanchoe branches into the soil and place them in a cool and ventilated place. They will take root in about 1-2 weeks!

5. After taking root, water it thoroughly and gradually expose it to the sun. Soon the saved Kalanchoe will fill a large pot!

Throw the withered Christmas cactus into water and it will come back to life immediately!

After a summer of dormancy, Christmas cactus may have root rot and leaves wilting. Don’t rush to throw it into the trash can. Try throwing it in water first. It will soon come back to life and become green in an instant!

1. Turn the Christmas cactus pot upside down, remove the roots from the soil, and check whether the roots are rotten.

2. If the roots are rotten, don't be soft-hearted. Use clean scissors to cut them off completely and cleanly!

3. After cutting off the rotten roots and stems, you can place the healthy Christmas cactus branches in a cool and ventilated place to dry the wounds. About 3-5 hours.

4. Prepare a hydroponic bottle or plastic bottle, pour in clean water, insert the Christmas cactus into the bottle mouth, with the bottom about 0.5-1 cm away from the clean water.

5. In less than half a month, the Christmas cactus will slowly grow roots. When the root system reaches about 3 cm in length, it can be transplanted into the soil!

6. When transplanting Christmas cactus, it is best to use breathable pine needle soil and put some chicken manure fertilizer at the bottom of the pot. First, maintain it in diffuse light, then after half a month, expose it to the sun, and water it once every 1-2 weeks.

Apply compound fertilizer water once every 2 weeks, and spray potassium dihydrogen phosphate every 2 weeks before flowering.